I boarded a different boat in Kadiköy, this one labeled Adelar. It was a grey drizzly day, so there were no crowds. It was not quite THIS emply - I was just early. :)
And so I sipped tea on the Sea of Marmara for the hour or so on the way. 5TL each way. The deal of the century for a ferry boat on the sea, as that translates to less than $3 each way.
Once on the main island, Büyükada, I wandered to a restaurant for an omelette, and there I met Serdar. Serdar decided that he would personally ensure that I had a wonderful day on the island. At first I was a bit leery. but he seemed (and turned out to be) genuinely helpful. He was a waiter at the seaside cafe, but there were few visitors from the boats on Wednesday, due to the weather.
Here he is trying to figure out a plan for my day.
I needed to change money into smaller denominations (the ATM dispenses 100s) and Serdar walked me to the bank, telling me about life on the island. The only time he has ever left Turkey was for his sister's wedding in Germany. This island is his world. Amazing. I do not think he is well educated...just little hints along the way. For instance he had a hard time locating his cafe on my map of the island. But he was a VERY gracious host.
And so we walked along the delightful streets. I bought a hat along the way, and we went to the teeny tiny bank. There are no cars allowed on the island, only horse drawn carts and bicycles. Compared to the noise and bustle of Istanbul, this was amazingly peaceful and restful.
Serdar spoke to the horsedrawn carriage service, and here he is inspecting to see that my tram is acceptable. He was funny, taking my day in his hands.
And off I went for a 1.5 hour tour of Büyükada, while Serdar went back to work. The carriage took me on a tour of the complete perimeter of the island. Quaint, quiet, antiquated.
After the tour I wandered the streets a bit. The island survives economically through tourists, so there were street vendors everywhere. I came upon a Starbucks (which seemed quite out of place, actually) and sat there for a couple hours sipping latte by the sea and journaling. It was a lovely 'down' day, and my foot was very appreciative!
I ended back at the same cafe, where Serdar's boss sat me by the sea for afternoon apple tea while I awaited my return ferry. This seat is literally RIGHT on the Sea of Marmara...my back pack is leaning against a plexiglass partition and the sea is right below. Sea breezes and cool air.
Serdar arrived and brought his tea to join me, and insisted on taking my picture. Truly, the man bent over backwards. He must be lonely. He sat and told me about his family, and asked me about mine.
At 4:45 I boarded the ferry, because if you miss the boat...you have ... um... missed the boat! And then you stay overnight.
There is a monastery on the island that is on the "must see" list, but you have to bike or walk up hill, and I was too spent, and saving my foot for Ephesus. I might go back next week. It was so peaceful and calm...
Back on the boat, I met a sweet little family from Iran. The baby girl was out cold, and so sweet, I asked if I could take her photo. The man answered "Of Course!" And then he asked me many questions, for an hour, about America, me, why I was here, etc. He was a riot. His quote of the day was "In Iran, we LOVE Americans, and you MUST come visit us." In fact he gave me his business card, his mobile number, and promised that he would get me a visa upon my arrival.
Here is his business card. I *think* he is a lawyer. Personally I hope I never need a lawyer in Iran.
Back onto the sea. Wild beautiful sea. A relaxing, refreshing, amusing day on a remote island. I am feeling very blessed these days. Güle güle. Good bye for now.










Grace, what an amazing day! I feel like I was there too! Thanks for sharing. I loved every single photo and word. I can see why Prince's Island is a MUST! I laughed out loud to read about hoping you never need a lawyer in Iran - seriously. And I was touched to see you using my little travel journal gift. Sending you hugs and blessings across the miles...and the ocean.
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