Transport Follies

In the airport, with airport cuisine.  At least they have caffeine and ayran!

Three funny transport stories.  First, we had a driver from the local office pick us and Frank's boss Fran up at the hotel for airport transport.  I think he is a part of the office staff, but he drove like the best of the taksis... i.e. death defying weaving.  I am not exagerrating when I say the space between vehicles is inches.  At one point there was a police car with flashing lights speeding up behind us, and our driver honked as the police car tried to merge.  The three of us could not believe it, and our driver went on and on, in Turkish, about the "crazy polis."  He would not let that police car past him!

We got to the airport and Fran hurried off for an earlier flight.  Frank and I started out, and Frank called to me that someone wanted to talk to him.  I said, "ignore him...let's go!" and kept walking.  I am calloused to salesmen and con artists now as it was a CONSTANT nuisance in the tourist areas of Istanbul. In two weeks  I went from eye contact and "no thank you" to total ignore.  Suddenly the man was in front of me, flashing a badge and saying, "STOP, POLICE!"  Honestly, my first thought was, "yeah, right."   But then... I figured out he was serious.  Oops.  One of his colleagues was questioning our driver, and then they compared stories.  I guess that illegal taxis are a growing problem here, so they wanted to ensure that was not the case with us.

We got to the Luftansa desk, and checked in.  The kind agent asked me if I wanted a wheelchair transport, because "fractured foot" was on my profile.  At first I said no, thinking of the dozens of miles I have trekked.  This morning I packed my boot rather than wearing it because it proved to be so inflexible on the plane.  The agent saw my hesitancy, and called the wheelchair.  (I have a dated medical  pass with me in case you are getting ideas).  And that was our Fastpass once again.  The "driver" pushed us to the beginning of every line, saving us at least an hour or two, and he delivered us to our gate.  A wheelchair will await in Frankfurt.  I can't say I recommend fracturing anything before traveling, but there are some perks.

And here we sit.  We did not have breakfast or lunch, and there is pretty much nothing within a distance that I can walk.  Ayran and cashews it is! Where's a good lamb chop when you need it?  They have subs and Doritos, but I have lost interest in fast food, and I hope that is a permanent change. (Skinny Frank, however, is noshing away on thick white bread, chips and chocolate.  Go figure.)

We leave for Frankfurt in about an hour and a half, and then on to Chicago, arriving about 9:30 pm.  (We gain eight hours on the way). We have a rental car at O'Hare to drive the 75 miles home.

June 21 is the longest day of the year.  This year, because we are flying west, ours will be 32 hours!

Güle güle!

Anna Grace

Our daughter Anna is blogging her summer adventure, too.  You can read about her three weeks in Bolivia and her seven weeks in Chile at www.annagrace92.blogspot.com

Like mother like daughter! :)

Güle güle Istanbul

It was hard to head down the Metro escalator tonight.  Istanbul has been magical.

Earlier, I lingered at the Four Seasons for a few hours.  Every detail there is meticulous, including gardens and floral arrangements galore.  Yes, those are real!  Have you ever seen so many orchids?

Katy met me at there, and we went for a long walk through some nearby neighborhoods, ending up at a favorite place of hers where we played tavla (backgammon), smoked banana nargile, had dondurmalar and limonata... a lemonade with mint and apple.  I had read that backgammon is the Turkish game, and I have seen it being played in sidewalk cafes and bars.  How great to kick back and play a few games!   Katy is adorable, and was such a fun guide.  I want to set her up with Joey... I am pretty sure they'd hit it off... but the logistics seem difficult.   She'd make such a great daughter-in-law, except for the living in Istanbul part!

After more walking and a bit of shopping, Katy asked if I wanted to try one of her favorites for dinner:  Kuru Fasulye and pilaf, which means dry beans and rice.  Hmmmm.  I told her I would trust her, and it actually was very good.  The closest taste I could describe is spaghetti-ohs.  Ha.  But better!

We had tea by the Bosphorus, and she accompanied me to the ferry.  We embraced in the Turkish way, with kisses (air kisses) to both cheeks.  We will keep in touch, and she has a standing invitation to visit Milwaukee!  Her family is in the Dallas area.  (She went to school at Princeton and did a study abroad program in Istanbul.  Now she tutors English here to high school students preparing for college entrance exams)

My last ferry ride.  Sigh.  The sun was behind us, making seaside photos are extra vibrant.  I love this one of the Maiden's Tower.

Once back to Kadiköy, I visited a shop that is popular with the young crowd here to get some t-shirts for my young crowd at home.  Thanks for the suggestion and directions, Katy.

As I came out of the shop, I walked past the Metro and to the shore again, just after the sun had set.  I said good bye to the now beloved skyline, and took my last Bosphorus photos, listening to the eerily beautiful sundown call to prayer.

It was a low key, perfect ending kind of day.  It's been a truly fabulous eleven full days here, and I feel like I maximized my time.  Magical is the word that keeps coming to mind. Istanbul, Turkey is a mesmerizing place, and I miss it already.

PS. I plan to blog on the plane tomorrow, and it will get published once I am on wifi at home.  There are lots of additional post ideas in my head, but I know that once I get back to home and work it will not be reality, so I will hope to get them onto the Blogger app during travel time.  -g 

Turkish Breakfast

My last day in Istanbul.  I am meeting Frank's cousin's friend's daughter (!), Katy at 2 pm.  We had dinner last week, and she came to "my side" of town.  This time she asked me to take the ferry to Besiktas, near where she lives, and she will show me her favorite places.  LOVE that.

I left the hotel about 9:30 after a leisurely morning and the beginning of packing.  I arrived at Kadiköy 40 minutes early, so I crossed over to Starbucks.  While there, I thought I might as well use the WC, and they directed me upstairs.  There is a huge room of stuffed chairs and tables up there,  AND an outside deck overlooking the ferry port.  Who knew?  Next time I will know where to hang out.  :)

The new boat route took us by the Maiden's Tower, and one more item was checked off my tourist itinerary.  (although I did not get to take the little ferry to it from Uskadar.  Next time.) 

The story is that a sultan put his daughter on the island after a fortune teller told him she would get bitten by a snake.  Sadly, a basket of fruit was delivered with a snake in the bottom, and she died in his arms. 

Part way through the ferry ride a guitarist began to sing and play on the ferry, while his buddy walked around with the hat.  LOVED it. I even videoed a bit...Istanbul memories.

Once on shore I stayed along the coast and headed up the Bosphorus.  One item on my list that had not yet been accomplished, but was highly recommended, was "Turkish Breakfast along the Bosphorus."  At one point I spied red umbrellas along the sea, in the far distance,  and decided that was my destination.

It is a good thing I am persistent, because this was not a straight shot.  

In fact I walked along the shore until I came to a fence, had to double back, head over to the street and walk through a University campus trying to get back to the shore.  A campus guard told me that the red umbrellas were the Four Seasons Hotel.  I have good taste, eh?  It is THE posh establishment of Istanbul, mentioned in all the guidebooks and on the Bosphorus tour.  I was more determined to find it.

I found the hotel, and headed to the red umbrellas. I am obviously a foreigner (most people guess Canadian - there must be an accent) and so of course I was welcomed.  Alas, the red umbrellas are at the strait-side pool, but the white umbrella tables, directly by the Bosphorus, looked equally charming.  The menu (and prices) about floored me, and I may need a second mortgage for this breakfast.  But hey, most of my breakfasts have been protein nut bars that I brought from home, so this is a once in a lifetime treat.  :)

My Turkish breakfast and surroundings have exceeded all imaginings.  Small portions of cheeses, sausage, honey in the comb, olives, and 2 eggs and bacon right in the pan.  Such a treat.  Sorry, I sent the bread back before the photo.

As I sit here and type on my ipad, sipping Turkish tea and staring at the Bosphorus Bridge, I am attempting to savor every sip, every moment of this most decadent experience.  In fact, I am not budging from my seaside spot until I meet Katy at 2, and she is now coming here to get me.

It's really a good thing that this is the LAST day.  I would have been VERY spoiled if it had been earlier in the trip. Most of the trip has been crazy hot and crowded and sticky and wonderful. This is a fairy tale ending.  :)

Feeling blessed beyond reason, g

PS  As I am just about to post this, a yacht pulled in to pick up a couple of Four Seasons guests.  Nice.

The ferry commute

On the ferry from Karaköy to Kadiköy this evening.

That is an unretouched photo...whew, such beauty.  The silhouette of the Blue Mosque with its six minarets is on the left, and Aya Sopha with its four minarets directly under the sun.

Good night!

Wednesday, part two.

On the Metro this morning I read some of Lonely Planet's Pocket Guide, (I brought a bunch of guide books with me) and it was the first time I had read about the Aya Sofya tombs, which are free to enter, and located in a courtyard behind the Aya Sofya museum. So, after taking the tram from Sirkeci to Sultanahmet, I scouted them out.

There were four or five separate small buildings, each more beautiful than the next, and each with sarcophagi inside.  Very solemn.  I had to remove my shoes before entering, just like at a mosque, although I did not need a head covering.  I also had to go through a security X-ray.

The ceramic tile work is breathtaking, and while the photos are beautiful, they do not do it justice.  The vertical lines, by the way, are the wires to the huge chandeliers.

After spending an hour there, I returned to Dervish Cafe and wrote the previous blog post.  Likely my last visit, which is hard to consider.

My last bowl of Dondurmalar, sigh.  (Believe me, I am working it off!). Do you see the woman smoking the nargile in the background? 

As I proceeded to the tram to head to the Spice Bazaar at Eminönü, I tried not to think about how it was likely my last time to see these great sites up close.  I took my zillionth photo of Aya Sofya and the Blue Mosque.

Aya Sofya

Blue Mosque.

I headed to the Spice Market, and then to the Mosque of Süleymaniye, the Magnificent.  But that will be another post.

Güle güle.

Exploring Istanbul on Wednesday, day ten

Day ten in Istanbul.  Crazy.  Only available because of Frank's work, and I am very grateful to have this opportunity.

I will also be ready to go home.  I am weary.

This morning I stayed on the Asian side for a bit.  I asked at the hotel desk how to find the Nostalgic Tram to Moda (down the coast) and they told me which metro exit to use in Kadikoy.  With a bit of help from strangers on the street, I found the street car tracks and awaited the ride.  

While it was an experience, a big loop through Kadikoy and Moda, it was not much help.  I never felt like we were near the sea, and ended right back where I started.   !!!  And so I began to walk.

I discovered the Istanbul equivalent of the Vancouver sea wall.  Magnificent.

I finally saw red umbrellas above, and walked up the stairs to the cafes about which I had read.

Turkish tea and a pause that refreshed.

I wandered in toward town, and spotted the tram tracks.  Yay.  Took the nostalgic tram, a yellow one this time, back to Kadikoy to the metro station.  (this sweet old man stood up just as I clicked the photo...)

Took the ferry to Eminönü, then took the tram, and got off at the Sirceki stop, hoping to find the train station that used to be the eastern end of the Orient Express.

And there it was!  I walked round and round looking for a sign, but the only sign was that of the restaurant.

I checked on my iphone, and sure enough there is an Orient Express geocache. So I spent about 20 minutes circling to find that.  Score!  It was a magnetic cache, under a drain pipe.  :)  I signed the tiny log rolled up inside.

(Yipes, I need a manicure)

Next I took the tram to Sultanahment, and had lunch at the Pudding Shop, which I read was a part of the 1960's "hippie trail."  

From here I headed to the Basilica Cistern, built by the Byzantine Emperor Justinian in the mid 500's AD.  The cistern is 9800 square meters, and has the capacity of 100,000 tons of water storage.  According to the guide book, "Two Medusa heads used as plinths in the southwestern part of the Cistern are masterpieces of sculpture art in the Roman period."

It was refreshingly cool and kind of spooky down there.  There is a small amount of standing water that is full of carp and goldfish, and we walked on wooden bridges.  It was dark, so the photos may not be too clear.

I have been sitting catching up on work email, and blogging and resting at my favorite Dervish Cafe near the Aya Sofya and Blue Mosque.  But I must move on so that I can wander the Spice Market and pick up a few souvenirs before it closes at 7 pm.

I hope to take sunset photos from the Galata bridge, as it is perfectly clear today.  Frank has to work late, so I will savor my second to last evening in magical Istanbul.

Güle güle!  g